August 3- Back on the trail again after a wonderful visit with friends at the trailhead campground. I was amazed at at the number of cars and trucks with horse trailers at this entry point into the wilderness, but it is the busiest in the entire complex. And for the number of vehicles, I really didn't see that many people after I got down the trail 6 or 8 miles or so.
I came upon
my first bear of this trip, a little black bear. It walked the
trail in front of me, going my way, but then detoured into the
forest below the trail. I thought I'd seen the last of it, but
then glimpsed her coming my way next to the trail. There was a
little clearing and I watched her come into a small pool there
and jump in. She groaned with pleasure each time she dunked her
head. It was a hot day and it looked good! I camped that night by
the South Fork of the Sun River, 
taking my bath thinking of that
bear!
August 4- A long day today. Headed up the North fork of the Sun and was impressed by the size of this wild valley. Big meadows and marshes with wide vistas and lots of mosquitos! I went for miles through another burn. I'm sure it was from '88 as was the Canyon Creek fire of the Scapegoat area. Thunder and lightning put on quite a show, but little rain. I camped in a high basin at the head of Red Shale Creek, 24 miles from where I camped last night.
August 5- This was a day of contrasts. The day started out clear and cool. The two deer that had been like pets around my camp saw me off in the morning as I headed north along the base of cliffs that formed an escarpment of the Continental Divide. I walked from basin to basin. Some were green and full of life. Others had the stark grey trunks of burned trees. The outfitter I met carried a letter out to mail to Leslie for me. They were the only people I saw all day. Lake Levale was a startling pasty blue, full of glacial silt and set in a tight bowl at the base of the wall. Hoping to camp here, but horses had heavily impacted this area.
It had rained hard in late morning, but now the sun beat down. I got to Open Creek and the trail up and over the Divide looked so inviting I decided to go that way. I camped in the high basin, bathed in some run-off from a snow bank and had dinner just before a dark, thunderous cloud blew out of the east. It looked frightning with lightning streaking from it at nearly a constant rate with loud crashes of echoing, ongoing thunder.
I ducked into the tent and the storm was upon me. It was like someone was pointing a fire hose at the tent. A torrent of rain poundeed down, hard and fast. The combination of noise; the rain; the thunder all blended into one big roar. It lasted nearly an hour before it passed. All was calm, clean and wet.
August 6-
This was a picture perfect day, A light breeze last night had
dried out the tent and I packed up and headed higher into the
basin. Pikas squeaked, the sun shone, and everywhere were sharp,
beautiful mountains. The trail led me up onto a series of
benches, each one offering more of a vista, until at last I
crested the Continental Divide just south of Kevin Mountain.
My map didn't name this pass and I wonder why. It certainly is one of the spectacular points of the summer. I could see across the wilderness to Sun Peak, south of the Chinese Wall and everywhere I turned another stunning sight greeted me. Nearby, a marmot lay perched on a point of rocks like a sentinal watching over the pass. I lingered long on such a day but eventually continued on a lovely traverse down to Swithcback Pass. Here I found not only more views, but also memories from two other trecks.
I was sitting there thinking when another hiker walked up the trail from the South. Bruce Foster had started June 15 down in Colorado. He has hiked the Appalachain Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail and was now exploring the Continental Divide Trail. He had seen me perform out east in '88 and we have mutual friends.
We were instant companions and walked along together, swapping trail stories. The beautiful miles slipped by and we found ourselves at Gooseberry Peak on the Middle Fork of the Flathead River. Here we had the incredible chance meeting of a friend, Bill Lecroix, from Hamilton, MT. He just happened to be out hiking for several days.
Our group of solo hikers was now a trio. We camped together on a gravel bar and Bill caught us trout we cooked over a fire.The company is good.
August 7- An olive-sided Flycatcher woke us up this morning with its call of "quick, three beers". Pine siskins and Robins all joined in. It was a old morning and we lingered until the sun found us and warmed our bodies. The first few miles we all walked together, trading stories and talking about wild things and wild places. Bill left Bruce and I when he turned up toward Gateway Pass. We were sorry to see him go.
We walked up Strawberry Creek as another thunderstorm brought
more showers. The trail was muddy and slick in places, but above
Beaver Lake we saw Grizzly tracks in the mud.
The rain came and went, and came again. Thoroughly wet, we got to Elbow Creek and made camp. It felt good to crawl into dry sleeping bags.
August 8- We are in the Badger-Two Medicine Roadless area. It is a place where wolves, grizzlies and many other wild things thrive. An important link in the chain of undeveloped areas from Yellowstone to the Yukon. Unfortunatly, as we walked along we saw lots of ATV evidence. Here plans are being made to drill for oil and gas. The attacks on this wild place are mounting.
More rain today, and hail, too. Bruce and I got quite wet. When we reached the South Fork of the Two Medicine River we began a series of fords. Walking the river again and again we finally got to a little spot that appealed to me. We parted ways, wishing each other the best and I made camp.
August 9- A day off here on the river. It was cold and overcast all day. I huddled around a fire writing songs, reading and watching the river flow by.
August 10- It is amazing how one day can be so grey and the next so blue and sunny! I only did 6 miles, but it allowed me the luxury of stopping here and there along the river, playing music. The river is running clearer now and is full of pools and cascades. It sings to me and I sing back!
August 11- I entered Glacier Park today, walking a trail from Marias Pass over to East Glacier. This trail doesn't get much use and was all overgrown and a tangle of brush. The 15 miles slipped by and I walked right up on another black bear before I saw him. It feels good to be back in this park. It has been a few years since I hiked here!
August 12- A day off in town.
Previous Update Next
Update
Y2Y Update Index
Y2Y Main Page
| Have a question or comment for Walkin' Jim? |
 |
Copyright © 1997 Wild Wind Records
Site hosted by I.D.Publications