July 24 -  Coyotes were yipping as we walked across the wide open basins south of Sunshine Village. It was another clear, cloudless day and hot already at 9:00 in the morning. Hearing the coyotes brought a cheer to my heart, for though these mountains have scenery unmatched, they are lacking in wildlife. I remember all the bear signs south of Kananaskis Lakes. Why aren't they here? The answer I'm sure is all the people. Too many folks in these mountain parks must push the bears back into the far corners. Indeed, the population of grizzly bears in all of the four Canadian National Parks combined is a dismally low number.

Leslie and I cheer the coyotes on and soon arrive at a ski resort, Sunshine Village. The place is abandoned, and the bus which brings hikers up to these alpine meadows has not arrived. We've paid to have a food package brought up and soon we are repacking our packs. After many phone calls we head out once again. It's nearly noon and the day is incredibly hot. We head north climbing a ridge. The views are outstanding. The wildflowers amazing. The crowds of dayhikers are soon left behind as we head first to Simpson Pass and then climb into a basin full of tiny lakes and ponds, tamaracks and paintbrush.

Right when we're starting to feel like we're "out there" we join the Healy Creek Trail and start to see hordes of backpackers. We head up to Healy Pass, passing other hikers. The place is beautiful. Wildflowers spill across the open slopes, splashes of red, yellow, blue, and white. We see paintbrush, arnica, valerian, fleabane, anemone, and more. The views are grand and sweeping. But at the pass we count nearly 25 people. It doesn't feel like a wild place at all.

We descend to Pharoah Creek and the backcountry campsite there is like a KOA. Tents are everywhere. We enjoy the place, but long for something that feels like the backcountry.

July 25 -  This is another hot day but we are on the trail by 7:30, first stopping at Egypt Lake, and then a steep ascent to a high pass, Whistling Valley. We hang out a long time at the pass admiring the vast views. A couple from Edmonton join us for some time and we enjoy their laughter. Later, on the spur of the moment, we decide to climb Pharoah Peak, the mountain east of the pass. We stash the packs and head up the steep, crumbling rock. It doesn't take too long and we're lounging on the ridge admiring lakes, glaciers, and sharp peaks in all directions.

Back on the trail we descend to Haiduk Lake, and after a quick dip continue down to the canyon bottom. We have the campsite to ourselves for a few hours before a nice couple from Paris arrives. This feels more like wilderness.

July 26 - First thing this morning we climbed up and over Ball Pass and into Hawk Creek. We are now in B.C. again; this time in the Kootenay National Park. A meadow here looks like a rotatiller has been at work. Fresh grizzly sign at last! We never see a bear but knowing they are here makes us feel good about this place. Too bad we have to move on. We drop all the way down to the Vermillion River, crossing a highway, and then start up Floe Creek. It's incredibly hot and by the time we get to the steep part of the trail we're zapped. But up we go. The flies get bad. They swarm us then we stop. We're drenched in sweat. Finally we top out in a beautiful cirque. Floe Lake is a deep blue dish lying at the base of the Vermillion Range. Glaciers drop right into the lake. It's a fantastic spot. But once again we are taken aback by the crowds of people. Here are 15-20 campsites clustered around the hillside. We find one of the most private and settle in.

July 27 -  We are up and hiking by 6:30. The campground is still sleeping as the first light of morning lights the peaks. Perfect reflections dance off the mirror that is Floe Lake. We start early today not only to beat the heat, but also because we have a long day. Three major passes to climb and many miles to go. The day is clear and hot again but we are jazzed and enjoy this day immensely. Each of the passes offers us outstanding views and wildflowers that are the tops.

Glaciers and their work are always visible. It's an amazing walk. We see very few people, meeting David and Wendy, a young couple from Montana and Scotland. There are a couple steep climbs in the heat of the day, but the ascent up to Rockwall Pass is easy, and once again up in the high basin the trail traverses the open country for a few miles. I am blown away by the beauty of this place. How majestic can a land be?

By the end of the day as we drop into Helmet Creek we are tired and dirty. The Helmet Falls roar off the headwall at the end of the canyon, falling what must be a couple thousand feet. It perks us up just seeing it. After having so much alone time today we are surprised and more than a bit disgusted to find the campground totally exploding with tents and people. It is a shock. With some trouble we find a private spot and set up camp. The day is topped off with good conversation with our new friends David and Wendy, and Matt and Bob, two hikers from eastern U.S.

July 28 -  Cool morning. We zip off the easy ascent to Goodsir Pass only to find the distant views obscured by smoke. Must be forest fire somewhere. It makes us glad we saw all we did yesterday with a clear view. At Goodsir Pass we run into more fields of flowers and the view of Mount Goodsir is inspiring. Then it is a long gradual descent, mostly in a mature, shady forest. The shade is much appreciated. We lunch at the Ottertail River and then hike an old fire road down to Float Creek where we camp. The only folks we saw today were 2 mountainbikers on the fire road. It feels good to be alone again.