Y2Y 2001 Update #4

August 11 - We leave the ranger station at Monkman Park and retrace our route up the Murray River to a logging road and the bridge across the big river. It's hot a day and the road walking is easy. We cross Imperial Creek and then take an overgrown road, now only used by moose and bears, and us crazy hikers. Lunch on beautiful Hook Creek before we begin a climb toward the south end of Albright Ridge. The forest is dense and the going is very difficult, so we rock hop up a brook until we find a nice game trail that leads us higher and higher. We find a maze of good elk trails and they lead us to the avalanche path we'll follow tomorrow, a camp in the forest isn't great, but we'll sleep well after a tough day of hiking.

August 12 - We hike into the alpine zone, leaving the trees and brush behind. The wildflowers are crazy in their abundance and color, and the views open up. For the first time since the Holmes River we see cut blocks and logging roads in parts of our viewshed. Most of the trip has seen no evidence of humans, let alone their impacts. But here amid the rolling basins and rocky peaks we are little dots moving slowly northward. We spot a bull elk and then an entire herd on a ridge across from us. A big Grizzly Bear grazes directly below us and we get a good look. It starts coming uphill and suddenly I can't keep up with John. He's out of here. We climb to a peak and have lunch with a grand view in all directions. A herd of mountain goats appears just below us and a few them graze toward us. Later we see the entire herd, nearly 30 goats, as they take off across the mountain's shoulder. We climb up and over a series of ridges and high benches, forever marveling at the lakes, the flowers, and the peaks. Our last basin proves the most challenging and we must climb a harrowing steep face with loose dirt and rock. It's a scary scramble with full packs. One false slip and we're goners. But we both make it up in half an hour and soon make camp in the high basin.

August 13 - My original plan was to keep to the high ridge east of the Sukunka River, but both of us are running low on energy. Our bodies are using up more than we're putting in. And we're feeding them 5,000 calories a day. So today we alter the plan. After climbing to the crest and a most rewarding dose of alpine walking, we descend to a logging road and take a branch of that to a notch just east of Hook Lake. From there its short but difficult bushwhack down to this beautiful, large lake.

Once on the shore we are able to walk on stones or logs and it's very pleasant. We see a beaver and pass its lakeside lodge. What a perfect place to call home. We walk the shore to the point where Hook Creek flows in from the north. Here is a little campsite in the woods and a wonderful gravel bar at the lake's edge. I'm weary. No energy. A dive into the lake refreshes me, though and dinner on the point is a perfect spot to finish the day.

August 14 - At first light I hear John get up and go out to the lakeshore. Later, I'm dozing when I hear a loon cry close by. I get up and go out to the shore. John is lying on his sleeping bag on the point of the gravel bar. 20 feet away studying him and giving an occasional cry is a loon. They look at each other and I think both are seeing this other species for the first time! I love what I'm seeing. The lake is calm and the morning light is golden and welcoming. Later we start up the creek, hoping to follow the bars, but soon just end up wading in the stream itself. This turns out to be a delight. The creek is beautiful and it's a hot day, so we walk it north for a few hours enjoying the little cascades, riffles and pools. Eventually we climb out and find an old trail that fades in and out as we trek northward through a series of bogs, wet meadows and forests. We see new and old beaver dams and slosh through mud and muck. Finally we pop out on a railroad track. One minute in the wild, the next minute we're on the ribbon of steel. This rail line goes through tunnels beneath the ranges to the east and to the west of us. We walk it to the mouth of the eastern tunnel, and then get on an old road. This becomes a logging road that parallels the Sukunka River. We camp next to a road tonight.

August 15 - Awoke last night with something nudging my leg through the side of the tent. "Is that you, John?"…"No, it's a bear." He was already awake watching the black form in the darkness. I grabbed by bear spray and horn ... the sound of the horn broke the silence. Nothing from outside. We talked a while from tent to tent, got out to pee, made lots of noise and tried to go back to sleep. This morning as I rolled up my tent I found our night visitor's calling card. Stuck in the fly were several porcupine quills. A very large one! We had a good laugh over that! Road walk on the dirt logging road all day. Met a few folks; Moose hunters on opening day of the season. Hot day, but easy walking. Lovely camp on the river with lots of time to soak and just sit, watching the water roll by.

August 16 - Another easy, lazy day. We only walk 6 ½ miles make camp and await our re-supply rendezvous. About 3:30 Brian Pate, of Chetwydn, BC, drives up. He's a true gentleman and "trail angel". Not only has he brought our food buckets, but also has a bag of surprises for us. We pull out fried chicken, yogurt, pie, apples, bananas, chocolate and we are cheering! It's heaven. Brian spends several hours with us sharing his knowledge of the land and stories of his many adventures. He impresses me greatly with his observations and perceptions of wild places. They are part of his spirit.

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