Y2Y 1997 Update #3 from Walkin' Jim Stoltz

Y2Y 1997 Update #3

July 17 - Resupply day! I walked 8 miles down to Highway 12 and hitched a ride to Townsend, MT where my friends, Pete and Rachel Fiegley, live. They had my food package and we had a wonderful evening with a great dinner. Talked to Leslie twice and had a long, hot shower.

July 18 - Back to the mountains bright and early. Pete and Rachel dropped me off about 6:30 and I commenced a long climb back to the crest of the Belt Mountains. Once on top, I was in the Mount Edith-Baldy roadless area. I left the trail and followed the ridge. It was heaven even with the cloudy skies.

Two mountain goats spooked as I approached. They were stout, burly fellows and made me think of chimpanzees the way they ran! They disappeared fast. Up and over several peaks and then to a spring where I camped in a whitebark pine forest. The tent was up just before an incredible storm. What a downpour. Later, I found myself in a dense fog, but as I cooked dinner the clouds began to shift. Some settled below me, others rose higher. The ones below me caught the last rays of the sun and illuminated wonderfully. A swirl of rainbow colors rose from the mist. What a way to end an incredible day!!

July 19 - Much of my walking today was done in the clouds. It was a day for them. The big gray ones settled over the crest again and again. Surprisingly few sprinkles, just walking in the clouds. I did see lots of elk, both cows and bulls. It seems like every mile or so I would run into another bunch.

The crest here is mostly wooded, but my high point of the day, Boulder Baldy Mountain was open. I was lucky in that I followed a patch of clear sky over the bald. Fairly good views of the expanses, but all distant ranges were cloaked in storms.

July 20 - It started raining late last night and poured and poured until mid morning. I slept in and when I did pack up I was walking in the fog. It began to clear by afternoon and I continued along the crest through open balds and forests of Douglas fir. Clearcuts and roads crossed the route every couple of miles. Not the best outlook for critters. I camped in a stand of fir with a clear view to watch the sunset. It was brilliant red as I went to sleep coyotes were barking.

July 21 - More of the Belt crest today with clear skies and a nice breeze. All the clouds of yesterday seem to have settled in the Smith River Valley to the east of me. I was looking down at a blanket of clouds below me all morning.

Lots of deer and elk. A cow and calf walked fifty feet from me. I'm afraid I spooked them when I said hello! For all the pristine pockets of forest and meadow they are certainly rivaled by serious impacts in the Belt Mountains. New roads, clearcuts, grazing and fences all add up to more barriers for critters on the move. It would be hard to be a secretive grizzly bear in this country. That's how I felt toward the day's end as I had to cross more private land. Back to the stealth hiking mode! Keep to the trees, avoid the open ground and try not to spook the cattle!

I made it through four miles undetected and camped in a clearcut amongst empty plastic jugs, rusted filters and litter of all kinds. Not my favorite campsite of the trip.

July 22 - How lucky we are to have "Wilderness"; places where machines are outlawed and nature rules. After walking through such heavily impacted land it was a relief to enter the "Gates of the Mountains" wilderness. I camped along Porcupine Creek.

July 23 - This is a very small wilderness area. I walked the length of it in one day. Didn't see a soul. Beautiful forests and meadows. Excellent trail with grand views. I hated to leave the high country, but dropped way down to the Missouri River via Merriwether Canyon. Hundreds of feet of rock walls rose above me as I passed through an amazing cleft of rock. A mountain goat carcass was at the base of these cliffs. Probably the most common cause of death for these animals is a fall.

I ended up at a boat-in picnic area all a bustle with travelers. It did quiet down and I spent a peaceful evening with herons, eagles and ducks all surrounded by these amazing rock walls.

July 24 - I spent a wonderful morning watching the first light slowly bring the narrow canyon to life. The birds, a doe and her fawn and countless little sights made the morning one to remember. When the first motorboats came blasting up the canyon it was as if some very precious thing was broken. Yet, I took advantage of those motors. I caught a ride on one of the tour boats and ended up on the west side of Upper Holter Lake. It was a nice ride and I met some great folks who recognized me from some of my concerts. I was able to leave a phone message for Leslie and mail her a letter, too. And then I set off to walk across one of Montana's largest ranches, the Sieben Ranch. This land I had permission to walk on and I began walking on a series of jeep trails through the area.

July 25 - What a perfect day! I started at first light and began climbing, scaring up a few deer and a coyote along the way. Once over the high crest, I walked it up and over Mitchell Mountain. This is grand country and I could see for hundreds of miles. I didn't see anyone all day. This is my 10th day I haven't seen people (about half the days on the trip). I finished the short day by dropping down into upper Canyon Creek and back into National Forest lands.

July 26 - Back on the Continental Divide! Yipee! This morning I carried up a load of water, went about five miles and set myself down. This is my day to rest and appreciate being out. What better place to do it than on the Great Divide? I have a special affinity for the divide. On many of my walks I've traveled along this geographic landmark, or crossed it. Mexico to Canada it has taken me and it calls home. So today I sit and think, play my guitar and appreciate this planet and its amazing life.

July 27 - This morning I walked a wonderful section of the divide. The views were to the plains and to the mountains. It was a great contrast. Easy walking on a new bit of trail and with the constant views, I once again hated to come down. I dropped to Rogers Pass and hitched a ride into Lincoln. Resupply day!

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