July 9 - Yesterday Jack and Joe and I walked into Coleman. It was hard to bid them farewell after our walk together. I spent the afternoon cleaning and packing, making calls, and preparing for this next stretch. Now I'm walking again, leaving town on the highway, then walking a dirt road, and eventually a trail over Deadman Pass into British Columbia. Once down in Alexander Creek I turned north on an old logging road, now nothing more than a trail. Thinking I was getting more remote, I was surprised when I came upon a new logging road. Sure enough, clear cuts appeared on the mountainsides above me. A bit discouraged, I walked the road for a few miles before once again regaining the old, more trail-like route. There I camped, in a peaceful glen, and jumped into the icy stream for a finale to this first day alone on the trail.

July 10 - The old road became difficult to follow at times, with the creek flowing down the roadbed. But I kept on and eventually turned up an even less traveled track, up and over a ridge into Line Creek. My day was long and difficult, and the route up to North Fork Pass seemed steep at the end of the day, but eventually I crossed back into Alberta.

July 11 - A very hard day. I walked the dirt roads for 23 miles. Beautiful country but hit hard by logging and ATVs. Was bored to be stuck on the more traveled ways. I did see a black bear and several deer, and met a couple friendly folks who stopped to talk. Also had a beautiful camp spot at the end of the day next to the Oldman River.

July 12 - First thing this morning I met a couple folks on horseback who had just spotted a grizzly on the road. With their warning ringing in my ears I walked up the little lane shouting and talking. Never saw a thing. Past Oldman Falls the road became even less traveled and soon I was back on a faint jeep trail through beautiful mountain meadows. I ended my day at Mud Lake where I found red blazes of the Great Divide Trail I was expecting.

July 13 - Feels good to be following a footpath again. And what a fine route. The trail led me up and into a series of high basins full of wildflowers. Lots of grizz tracks, and I spotted several bighorn rams. Then I followed a side ridge which offered spectacular views. It was a short day ending at Lost Creek, but felt good to be on wilder ground.

July 14 - The day started rather ho-hum, with the trail taking me up through nice forests. But then I reached Cataract Plateau. The route just hit the edge of it, so I left the trail and did a big loop out onto this vast, open alpine plain. The wind blew with incredible force, pushing me from side to side, but the sky was clear and I was as free as those gusts. I wandered here and there, marveling at the carpet of flowers and the amazing peaks at every turn. The place filled me with power and it was with regret that I finally regained the route. I walked an open ridge with expansive views. A small band of elk trotted ahead of me.