| 2002 Trail Updates |
Y2Y 2002 Update #2
July 26 - The plane lifts off and I wave goodbye. In minutes I'm alone again. The food drop on the upper Halfway River has gone perfectly. As I rearrange my food, movement catches my eye. A large cow moose ambles by!
The pack is heavier now, but I'm charged up and begin hiking up a steep slope toward Mount Kenny and a pass northward. My tent is pitched above timberline, up in the wind. The last light of day playing on the jagged peaks around me.
July 27 - Cold morning. I walk bundled up and am still chilled. But the views are superior along this alpine traverse and soon I'm dropping down into a long valley to Sideniius Creek. A tough bushwack gets me back into the alpine zone where I camp with a lone caribou for company. Rain and snow drive me into the tent. A cold wind is raging
July 28 - Fresh snow on the peaks around me. And such a cold night. I'm walking with everything on and the wind sucks the breath from me. I inch up a steep headwall and drop into a vast basin. A band of nine caribou graze peacefully here, the calves butting and playing. When they see me they run, but then come back for a closer look. Curious animals. And very skinny this time of year.
I head up toward another high pass. Snow comes in waves, pelting me with a stinging bite. I struggle on, pushing into the wind, higher into the bare rocky world. Like an ant, I creep through the vast open pass. A rock cairn, rocks neatly piled, manifests itself out of the swirling snow. Never have I felt so joyful at the sight of a pile of rocks. It reminds me that there are others and I am a part of it, too. It cheers me and begins a long descent into Gautschi Creek
July 29 - More snow and rain nearly all day. I walked many moose and elk trails, ford the rivers in the snow, hiking in full cold/wet weather gear. I need to keep moving. The Sikanni Chief River is deep, but I find a place where the animals cross and am able to wade it. I feel like I've crossed a goal line when I reach the other side.
July 30 - It's a cold, but sunny day I cross College Creek and head north into vast open meadows, I've been seeing moose and caribou around every corner. Wolf and bear tracks abound. Now I descend to the Besa River, another landmark. I was hoping to ford it, but it is too deep and fast. I consider swimming it but know that there is a bridge several miles downstream. I follow the game trails along the west bank of the mighty river.
August 1 - Another rainy day. I pack up during a lull in the rain and start walking. The rain turns into snow. Today, as a few days ago, I walk in survival mode; full on wet and cold weather gear. And keep moving!
There are good elk trails and I eventually hit a horse trail. When it crosses the river I must find the animal trails to climb above the cliffs that hem in the river. It's very straightforward, but in the snow it becomes a challenge.
At days end I reach the outfitter's camp, airstrip and cabins at Kiely Creek. Here I meet Brian, a bear/wolf researcher working on a doctorate degree. He invites me to use one of the cabins and feeds me a wonderful dinner. I sleep dry and am able to dry my gear.
August 2 - Snow on the ground here at 3500 feet. Up high there must be 2 feet. I'm concerned about the trip if this snow keeps up. Brian lets me stay another day to let the snow melt. It begins to break up.
August 3 - I'm walking by 7:30, fording Kiely Creek 3 times as I go upstream a few miles to a trail shown on my map. This is unusual, as most trails in this country aren't shown on maps, but in the knowledge of folks who guide and travel up here. This trail leads me up into the high country and on a high plateau I loose the fading path in a sea of arctic willow and muskeg. I can see the snowy peak and ridge I must get to, but walking is slow and difficult to get there. The sun peaks out and I visit with a herd of curious caribou. The views of sharp, glacier-covered mountains are outstanding. I can't believe the sights. The snow gets deeper, above my knees in places. I try to stay to the windblown rocky stretches but they get scarcer as I get higher.
Just as I reach the top it begins to snow. It's hard grapple that stings when it hits. Bundled like a yeti I tromp on through the swirling heaths.
August 4 - Walking until dark yesterday, I passed by Richard and Hewer Creek. My camp was a welcome spot under a big spruce and this morning I sleep in long after my usual rising time. It is a much easier day, reaching the Profit River. One good ford; and nice walking on a well-traveled horse trail. I camp in a field of dryads (species of flower) next to a clear singing stream.
August 5 - This is my first clear morning in a while. What a jewel of a day and how I need it. Today I go up the Prophet River, crossing it many many times. I come to a big open gravel bar where the river is braided. Here I walk in my sandals, wading off and on, for a mile or more. The open space, sunny day snow capped peaks and lots of wildlife has me intoxicated. I am in love with this place!
At days end I reach the airstrip where I will have supplies flown in to meet me tomorrow. Along with those supplies, a friend, Jack Noll, will fly in and join me for the next stretch. The folks here are wonderful and offer me a cabin to sleep in and a friendly dinner, Danny and his wife, Nancy have been guiding here for 30 years or more. Donald and Sandra and wrangler, Jordie, all make me feel welcome. Nice folks and great place to finish this second leg of summer.
Now I wait for the plane and Jack. I look forward to the wild country ahead!
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