Y2Y 2002 Update #1

July 17 -  Back on the trail again! I'm so excited to start this last leg of the Yellowstone to Yukon journey. I've been dropped off at Dunleavy Park on the east end of Williston Lake. The skies are gray and it is well after 3:00. I am bristling with energy to finally be on my way, even with the heavy pack of ten days worth of food. I trudge up the old forestry road, higher and higher, camping next to a spring after 6 miles.

July 18 - Awake to overcast skies, but cool walking. I reach the end of the road and ascend higher on a trail climbing higher into the alpine zone of Aylard Ridge. Just as I break out of the trees a bald eagle flies by, the clouds break and I'm greeted with views stretching hundreds of square miles. Williston Lake seems far, far below. Snowy peaks rise like a wall to the west. In the east the land is a flat carpet of green forest disappearing forever.

I am totally floored by the amazing sites and the clear day. The track ends and I follow the open crest of the rolling ridge. Caribou horns (antlers) litter the ground amidst patches of moss campaign, monkshood and sky pilot. Toward late afternoon, dark ominous ones replace the friendly white clouds. Thunder rumbles to the north of me. I have the highest mountain of the ridge to go over. It's just ahead. Can I make it up and over before the storm? I punch ahead. The slope becomes much steeper. My pack feels like 100 lbs at this time of the day. My progress slips down to a mere crawl. But I make it to the top, pause for a photo or two, and then drop down the north side.

In the pass below I find a low bench sheltered from the wind and set up my tent. But, NO storm! It misses me. I sleep well tonight.

July 19 - I awoke to a solid ceiling of dark clouds. The rain still held off as I packed up and started walking the vast open ridge. The clouds dropped and I was walking in the clouds themselves. This is usually something I enjoy, but I was trying to get a visual clue as to where it would be best to descend off the steep ridge. I wandered northward in the dense fog as it began to rain. A couple miles later, the rain slackened and the clouds lifted enough for me to see my alternatives. Both looked like tough bushwhacks, but I know I chose the correct one.

  I dropped to the west very steeply. Luckily the forest was not too dense. I found a series of animal trails that helped and soon hit and old seismic line, which led me up and over a low ridge. Another moose trail led me a couple miles down to a beautiful stream with open willow flats.

The rain was coming and going so I was getting quite wet with all the bushwhacking. This stretch along the stream was pleasant, but hard walking. Found several moose "paddles"; the big antlers lying like little sculptures amidst the willows. Wolf and bear tracks, too.

I follow the stream north a few miles before climbing steeply to a vast clearcut. This is so different. What was a living forest was now void of life. They do the cuts big up here so the impact is more overwhelming seen first hand.

I walked the logging road and was surprised to see a person. Tree planters at work! I camped that night on the edge of another block cut. Just before dark a lone cow moose wandered out of the forest and tiptoed through the sea of clear-cut debris.

July 20 -  Walked on roads for most of the day. Rain off and on through the morning as I wound through more cut over land. Crossed the Graham River flowing deep and wide. I was glad there was a bridge.

At Crying Girl Prairie campground, I met 2 others who were camped. They were friendly and we chatted a bit before I continued on to the end of the road. Here was a private ranch owned by Harold Lewis. He was very friendly and pointed the way across his land to how I would find the trail going up the Graham. What a spot! As I walked the open meadows, stands of aspen, and lush wetlands of Crying Girl Prairie. I thought how blessed we are on this beautiful ol' Earth.

A few miles up the trail it began to rain, then pour, then absolutely poured down. Luckily I have my umbrella so I stayed quite dry except my feet. Camped next to the trail as the skies began to clear.

July 21 -  Clear day and relatively easy walking but turned into a longer day then I'd planned. The highlight came after several miles as I neared the side trail to Christine Falls. As I topped a little hill a lynx wandered onto the trail looking in the opposite direction. I froze. For sixty seconds we looked into each other's eyes. Then she was gone.

I walked out to the falls and was very impressed. The size and volume of falling water was amazing, and the gorge spectacular. The 2 fellows I met yesterday drove up on the ATV's and we chatted a bit before I kept on. A couple miles brought me to the end of the motorized route. Beautiful Christina Falls Ranch. Here was a perfect spot rather run down cabins, but finally Marlon Watson. I chatted a while and he offered me the use of his hunting cabins farther upstream. Off I went.

I wasn't planning a long day, but thought I could make it to their Big Meadow Cabin. The trail had lots of blowdowns so the going was slow. I saw a little black bear on the way, tons of wolf tracks and grizzly prints, too. Slept with a roof over my head after a 22-mile day.

July 22 -  Shorter day, mile wise, but very exhausting. I forded the Graham River easily enough. But the trail I followed brought me right back down to the river again and again and again! I forded at least 8 times and even tried staying on one side for a while without the trail but it was even slower. Lots of thrashing through dense willows even on the trail. But I get to the next cabin and had a nice bath in the river to top off the day. The full moon was a blessing, too!

July 23 - Just a few fords today making my way further north along the Graham. Late start, but I didn't plan a very long day. Grand views and open vistas. Passed a ruin of a log cabin and camped near a nice creek. Full moon shining in the door of my tent. Such total peace.

July 24 - Beautiful warm day. I walk the edges of vast wet meadows. It really feels like I'm "out there" now. This is a big wild country and I know that I am the only person for miles and miles.

Leaving the Graham River watershed I follow a little stream north, hopping from one side to the other. I break out into an open valley. It feels like I'm an ant crossing it, weaving through the willows and grasslands. Calnan Creek is sparkling clear, fresh from the snowmelt. It's an easy ford. On the other side I strike a rare trail that is actually shown on the map. It leads me a few miles to the beautiful Halfway River. Another easy ford. In no time I'm at the old trapper's cabin overlooking the winding halfway. I'm ahead of schedule so look forward to a rest day tomorrow. The rustic cabin feels good. A moose wanders by and later a giant porcupine needs to be chased away as it chews at the door. My kind of lodging!

July 25 - Lounge day. I need it. I'm trying to save energy for this more difficult stretch ahead. The day is spent wandering the flats by the river, reading and playing my flute. Looking for woodland buffalo, which I've seen sign, but no sighting yet. Tomorrow I will have my first food resupply when I meet a plane at the airstrip further up river. I'll send this update in a letter to Leslie. Hope for a good flying day!

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